Lace Jewels

14K Dutch Victorian Cannetille Cross Pendant & Chain with Spiral Clasp 18"

A beautiful Dutch Victorian c.1850-1860 cross pendant and chain with spiral clasp, modelled in 14k gold, hallmarked.

The cross pendant is beautifully reticulated with fine cannetille details, which is similar to filigree, where fine gold wires or thin sheets of gold are hammered to form beautiful designs. It comes with a chain that has a spiral barrel clasp, measuring 18" long.

Both the pendant and chain are each hallmarked with the Dutch oak leaf hallmark for 14k gold, and are original to one another as a set.

It is a gorgeous example of Dutch regional jewellery in great condition. It isn't weighty but feels lightweight and airy, as it would have most likely belonged to the "common class" folk who wanted something in solid gold with intricate and beautiful design, which is common in pieces with cannetille design, as gold was scarce. It remains a very beautiful Dutch regional piece of history to be treasured.

The cross pendant is not affixed to the chain, and can be worn separately with other chains if desired. Similarly, the chain can be worn with other pendants.

The cross pendant measures 35mm x 58mm with bail, 35mm x 50mm without bail.

The cross weighs 2.50 grams, and the chain weighs 4.98 grams.

The Cannetille Technique
"Cannetille is a close relative of filigree work. It typically features fine gold wires or thinly hammered sheets. Jewelry with cannetille was very popular in the 1820’s and 1830’s. Motifs included tendrils, scrolls, coils, beehives and spider-like rosette ornaments. Jewelry featuring cannetille was often embellished with granulations and thinly stamped metals.

On one hand, the rise of cannetille is explained by the “gold poverty” of the early nineteenth century. After the Napoleonic wars, precious metals were extremely scarce on the European continent. The economy was crippled in the early 1800s and even the upper classes struggled to survive the depression. Nonetheless, grand jewelry was in fashion. Cannetille jewels could be very large but used only a small amount of gold. Though they were typically quite labor-intensive (goldsmiths fabricated the intricate wirework completely by hand), the jewels were kept affordable by low labor costs.

On the other hand, cannetille jewelry tapped into a particular aesthetic urge– part nostalgic, part romantic– running through Europe at the time." - The entire above excerpt is provided by Antique Jewelry University / Lang Antiques. Click here for the page written by Lang Antiques about Cannetille jewellery in the 19th century.

Era - Victorian c.1850-1860
Materials - 14k gold
Measurements - Cross: 35mm x 58mm with bail, 35mm x 50mm without bail / Clasp: 17mm x 4mm height / Chain Width: 4mm thickness
Length - 18"

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